Published: 12:19 AM, 09 May 2026
In Search of Safer Paths: Exploring a New Himalayan Route of Faith and Adventure
Sayantani Mahapatra
The recurrent landslides in Uttarakhand and the tragic incident at Kedarnath inspired me to explore an alternative trekking route through the earthquake-prone Chamoli district. Our plan was to begin from the Badribishal temple, cross Holdsworth Col, Khirao Ganga, and Bruce Col, and conclude our journey at Kalpeshwar temple via Fullyanarayan. With this objective, on behalf of The Institute of Exploration, Kolkata, we reached Badrinath on 4 October 2024.
Our trek began on 6 October from the Badribishal temple. Blue Whistling Thrushes and White-capped Redstarts greeted us along the trail. The Rishiganga, visible to our left, is the main source of electricity for lower Bamni village and is locally known as Bamniganga. After a smooth concrete path up to Charan Paduka, we entered a boulder zone. Crossing the Rishiganga from north to south, we reached Dumkal Bugiyal (3,876 m; 30.7394°N, 79.4518°E), where we camped on an excellent meadow flanked by high ridges to the south and a stream to the north.
The following day's trail was a blend of colourful foliage and scattered rocks. Proceeding westward and then south across humps and ridges, we established camp at the lower base of Holdsworth Col (4,218 m; 30.7265°N, 79.4387°E), on the left bank of the Bamniganga, with Neelkanth visible to the south-west. On the third day, we traversed moderate to steep boulder slopes leading to Holdsworth Col. Phenkamals and Delphiniums grew from cracks in the rocks. After negotiating a mix of boulders and grassy stretches, we camped at Chheddar grassland (4,043 m; 30.6959°N, 79.4466°E), where Nandadevi, Nanda Ghunti, and Hathi-Ghora appeared from right to left in the east. The Chheddar rivulet flowed below.
The next descent revealed a lush landscape dotted with flowering plants such as Selinum, Swertia, Geranium, Houseleek, and the nearly extinct Arnebia. Birds like the Alpine Accentor, flocks of Doves, and Himalayan Pikas were also sighted. A sudden shower forced us to pitch camp hurriedly on a green slope above Khirao Ganga (3,369 m; 30.6830°N, 79.4533°E), amidst an abundance of thorny Morina, locally called Kanjila. A nearby meadow was known as Kanjila Kharak. From Kanjila, we saw the Kunth Khal and the Joshimath–Hanuman Chatti road to the east, Khirao Ganga below to the south, and Matpata at eye level. The route to Bruce Col was faintly visible higher up under a clear sky. The setting was one of vivid colour and deep tranquillity.
On 11 October, we moved from Kanjila Kharak along a steep jungle slope, crossed the Khirao Ganga from north to south, and proceeded eastwards with the river to our left. Through boulder-strewn terrain, we ascended and pitched camp in the Polygonum jungle (3,280 m; 30.6739°N, 79.4494°E) in the Barmol region. To the north-west rose Mt Neelkanth and Uniyani Kham peaks, while a stream flowed down from the south-east. Encountering bear activity, the next morning we advanced in a tight queue, calling loudly to one another as we forced our way up beneath dwarf rhododendrons. Traversing westward first, we free-climbed a rocky wall towards the south, where a copper-hued cliff gleamed under sunlight (3,442 m; 30.6715°N, 79.4488°E). After crossing two stony yet grassy humps, we camped at Matpata (3,868 m; 30.6622°N, 79.4506°E).
The following day, delayed initially by bad weather, we eventually set out across scree, a long grassy ridge, and snow patches, reaching the circular Matpata Sem basin (4,326 m; 30.6420°N, 79.4488°E). It was enclosed by Vishnu Garh Dhar to the south and snowy peaks to the east, with slow rivulets running around its periphery and Brahmakamal blooming among the boulders. In 1994, Biman Bihari Kahali's team had followed this same route from Badrinath via Chota Nandi Kund and Nandi Kund, reaching this point before turning toward Hiswethela.
On 14 October, wary of the gloomy forecast, we started early from Matpata Sem toward the east. Snow-covered soft slopes soon turned steep, leading to boulder fields and ice patches with several open and semi-hidden crevasses. Using a 20-m rope, we climbed below the pass and reached Bruce Col (4,878 m; 30.6222°N, 79.4611°E), paying our respects to Neelkanth to the north and Nandadevi to the east. Descending amid snowfall, we crossed a small ridge and camped on a glacier field at Poona Bank (4,558 m; 30.6183°N, 79.4695°E). Later that evening, the lights of Joshimath were visible under a clear sky. The next day's route was strewn with loose boulders of varied sizes —evidence of rapid glacial retreat due to global warming. After negotiating snow and rock walls, we reached Panarsa Top (4,561 m; 30.6155°N, 79.4689°E). Beneath the top lay an expanse of boulders. We continued through snowfall, eventually camping in a circular depression surrounded by rocks and a small stream. From here, the climbing route to Sona Sikhar was visible to the north-east.
On 16 October, after traversing grass, scree, and snow, we crossed a mixed rock-and-snow pass. The weather deteriorated rapidly into whiteout, rain, and snow. We descended in search of water and camped at 4,102 m amidst _Rheum sp._ — a medicinal plant known for treating digestive ailments.
The next morning began with more loose boulders. After climbing through grassy and icy sections, we traversed successive ridges and reached Lori Top (4,220 m; 30.5859°N, 79.4776°E). A steep descent of dry grass led us to Bedua Kharak, where we camped on a sloping meadow beside a stream — the source of the Helong Hydel Project. After Kanjila, we again came across shepherd shelters. The route to Bhanai Base was marked by streams, Polygonum-laden meadows, and mixed boulder terrain. Intermittent snowfall forced us to camp at Bhanai Base. The next morning, through steep mixed terrain of grass, rock, and snow patches, we reached Bhanai Top (4,056 m; 30.5775°N, 79.4543°E).
From there, gradual ups and downs over humps led to the snow-patched rocky trail of Rikhuni. To the west lay the Gimme glacier and Hiranyavati river, and to the north, Hiswethela. Descending through dry grasslands and forests of Pine and Bamboo, we were welcomed by the Rufous Sibia as we entered the Fullyanarayan temple compound (2,950 m; 30.5607°N, 79.4498°E).
On the fifteenth day, the trail wound mostly through forest. After crossing Binarkhoi spring and Bharki village, we reached an asphalt road lined with walnut trees. Turning left, we walked beneath large overhanging trees and over a flower-strewn rocky path. Soon we heard the murmur of the Kalpaganga river and the ringing of temple bells as we entered the Kalpeshwar temple compound (2,110 m; 30.5495°N, 79.4490°E). Our 15-day exploratory traverse by an unconventional route was now over. I hope this path will, in time, become popular among trekkers and may also serve as a useful alternative in emergencies.
A five-member team of Sayantani Mahapatra (Leader), M. Nabi Tarafdar (Dy. Leader), Dr. Soumitra Kayal, Sreyadip Pradhaan, and Prasenjit Sinha from West Bengal completed a 15-day exploratory traverse from Badribishal to Kalpeshwar (6–21 October), crossing Dumkal, Matpata Sem, and the Bruce Col (4,878 m) to link the Rishiganga and Khirao Ganga valleys. The team negotiated extensive boulders and snowfields, recorded rich alpine flora and fauna, and re-established an unconventional high route suited to future exploration or emergency use.
On 19th April 2026, the West Bengal Mountaineers & Trekkers Confederation felicitated Sayantani Mahapatra and her team The Institute of Exploration (IOE) for leading an exploratory high-altitude route from Badrinath to Kalpeshwar. The honour was conferred alongside this year’s Everest expedition members, recognising their contribution to Himalayan exploration.
Sayantani Mahapatra is a school
teacher from West Bengal, India with a dedication to trekking the Himalaya,
specialising in lesser-known routes.
